★★★★★
Stayed at HOSHINOYA Bali and writing this on our final morning over breakfast, before moving on to another all villa, highly private resort. Having visited Ubud four times and stayed at several five star properties, this feels like a fair moment to reflect.
The defining characteristic here is serenity. Despite beautifully designed communal areas, they are almost always empty. Outside of dining times, shared spaces are largely unused, and many guests appear to dine in villa or off site. This isn’t antisocial, it’s simply very calm. Compared to resorts like Six Senses, COMO, or Bvlgari, which naturally develop a social buzz, HOSHINOYA feels intentionally introspective, very much aligned with Japanese hospitality values of privacy and restraint.
Each long, linear pool serves only around ten villas. Some reviews mention shared pool privacy concerns, but in practice this was a non issue. I swam three to four times a day and never once shared the pool. Each pool is around 70 metres long, and swimming it entirely alone is a rare luxury.
The villas are understated and calming rather than visually dramatic. Storage is limited, with no dedicated space for large suitcases, so living partly out of cases is likely. We stayed in a Bulan Garden Pool Villa, one of the smaller categories, without a jungle view. Beds are very low but king sized and comfortable, bathrooms are excellent with Toto Neorest toilets, and there is no television, a deliberate choice that reinforces the sense of retreat.
Food was consistently very good, with generous portions and a mix of Indonesian, Japanese, and Western cuisine. The spa arrival via funicular into the valley is a standout moment.
Most guests during our stay appeared to be Japanese or Chinese, often travelling as families, which gives the hotel a very specific feel. It isn’t set up for sunbathing, and the pools function more as calming architectural features than leisure or social spaces.
Although located a little outside central Ubud, getting around is easy and inexpensive.
Best suited to guests seeking deep calm and privacy. Those looking for a lively or social resort atmosphere may find it too quiet.